Alexandre Mattiussi showed his co-ed spring lineup via a film shot at night in a deserted carnival. Elongated silhouettes emerged from the dark, hazy setting as a crowd of models gradually fanned out into the fun fair in slender evening dresses with deep-V necklines, slick leather trench coats and long, double-breasted suit jackets with satin lapels.
There was volume, too, with loose, low-crotch trousers, wide Bermuda shorts and cropped tuxedo jackets — worn over skin-baring bra tops with straps that crossed the chest and sheer, mesh tank tops.
The youthful elan of the clothing was further relayed by colors, and Mattiussi worked with tie dye for the first time, opting for stark mixes — black with emerald, or hot pink. Long tailored vests in pale pink or pale blue carried sharp, black lapels, while beige trench coats were lined in bright yellow. White, high-top sneakers finished off the looks.
AMI RTW Spring 2022
The label teamed up again with Alvaro Colom, who produced last season’s film — its most watched ever.
This one, titled “L’Échappée Belle,” carries a double meaning in French — a narrow escape, or a great outing. Both messages suit, Mattiussi suggested, given what we’ve been through and as hope beckons.
“We are between two worlds here, between the world of isolation and lockdowns, and the world full of hope and optimism, ready to do discover things again, to be together and party,” he said.
The presentation captured a feeling of uncertainty — there’s something unsettling about the mostly empty ferris wheel, bumper cars and merry-go-round in the artificial light. After the film, the brand released photos of the celebrities it dressed, snapped against a dark backdrop, their faces lit with colored light — Quincy Brown, Kris Jenner, Camila Mendes, and South Korean boy band Enhyphen.
The accessories thrust was wide-reaching, with felt hats by Borsalino, chunky-soled sneakers, sandals, crystal earrings and new handbags — the Accordéon, which folds out to the sides, comes in two sizes, while the Déjà-Vu is a smaller, out-on-the-town bag.
The designer also widened the label’s reach with some new silhouettes, including a white hybrid dress that had a cropped, cape-like blouse affixed to the top — long sleeved with a collar, with straps as fasteners.
“It’s very personal but I want to go out, I want to look good, I want to dress well, I want to pull out the diamonds, I want to do my hair — things have picked up again, we want to discover the world, meet new people, listen to new music, things we don’t know — I’m very interested in seeing what the future will bring us,” Mattiussi mused.
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